Working its way up the eastern side of the mountain, the stone staircase has now been paralleled by a new, beautifully constructed wooden one which leads you through the deliciously lush forest. Stunning strangler fig and silk cotton trees adorn your path, among the vines and deciduous dipterocarp that are a constant feature of forest-scenes here. Your soundtrack as you climb is birdsong. It’s really magical.

Numbers painted on to the steps helpfully tell you how far you’ve come, or how far you have to go for the pessimistic mathematicians among you.

The staircase is just off the main road leading to the ticket office and Preah Vihear temple itself. It’s well sign-posted but you’ll need to use transport to get there.