Along the prettiest of waterways, 24 kilometres outside Kampong Cham, Wat Maha Leap is the last working wooden pagoda of its kind. Inside, each pillar required a whole tree. Sadly, a large beam fell down in early 2012, partly destroying the central altar and access has been restricted, although a smile and donation should find the key.

Sacred Wat Maha Leap southeast of town is one of the last remaining wooden pagodas left in the country. More than a century old, this beautiful pagoda was only spared devastation by the Khmer Rouge because they converted it into a hospital. The wide black columns supporting the structure are complete tree trunks, resplendent in gilded patterns. The Khmer Rouge painted over the designs to match their austere philosophies, but monks later stripped it back to its original glory.

Many of the Khmers who were put to work in the surrounding fields perished here; 500 bodies were thrown into graves on site, now camouflaged by a tranquil garden.

The journey to Wat Maha Leap is best done by boat from Kompong Cham. Follow the Mekong downstream for a short distance before peeling off on a sublime tributary known as Small River, which affords awesome glimpses of rural Cambodian life. A guided trip on a 40HP outboard (US$50 round-trip, including stops in nearby weaving villages) gets there in less than an hour each way. Outboards can be found at the boat dock.

Small River is navigable only from July to December; at other times, travel overland. It’s pretty difficult to find on your own without some knowledge of Khmer, as there are lots of small turns along the way, so hire a moto (motorcycle taxi; US$10 per return trip including a stop in Prey Chung Kran, one hour each way). It’s 20km by river and almost twice that by road.

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